All Chef Must Study At This Spot’: Modest Turkish Dining Spot Secures Fourth on Roll of London’s Leading Dining Destinations.
Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.
An Surprise Recognition
This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the family totally astonished.
“I am utterly shocked,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small place achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.
The Charm of Simplicity
This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.
A Signature Creation: Tantuni
However, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent quality.
The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.
The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.
Other Than the Basic Tantuni
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.
Rising Above the Giants
Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.
A Creed of Hospitality
It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.
“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.
The Path of Dedication
In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.
Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.
“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.
A Accomplishment for the Community
The restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.